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Any relevant cropping I will perform in post-processingįilm Emulations: I love the Fuji Film Emulations and use them often when shooting in the RAW + JPEG Mode. Image Size: I typically leave this at the default range of 元:2. On occasion I used the BackUp Mode but I usually do not sweat card failure. You can set it to BackUp and RAW/JPEG as well but I never use these. My Card slots are set to Sequential, which means, that when one card fills up, the camera switches to the other card. Brackets in the X-Pro 2 can be set through the Drive Button on the top D-Pad of the camera.Ĭard Slots: Both my X-T2 and the X-Pro 2 have dual card slots, one of the endearing features I love about these cameras. Brackets in the X-T2 can be set in the Shooting Menu > Drive Setting > Bracket Setting. I do wish Fuji would change the Firmware to allow 5 to 7 stop differences. So this will be one shot at my defined exposure, then at shot 1-Stop Under, and a shot that is 1-Stop over. I have my Exposure Brackets set to 1-Stop apart. But if I need a quick bracket set I can switch to this in the Drive Mode. More often than not I don’t do this as I am always making my brackets while looking at the histogram. I never have this on unless I am shooting a very long exposure such as a star trail.ĭynamic Range: I leave this set to DR100 as my default.īrackets: I will occasionally shoot a defined bracket set of images. Noise Reduction: I have this set to 0 as my default. I hardly ever vary this as it can be manipulated in post processing. Meet our new project GRAIN Magazine and subscribe for a LIFETIME membership. For street work, or people, I will use RAW + JPEG Fine and I will employ the Fuji Film Emulations. All files will be processed from RAW using Lightroom, ACR, or Iridient Developer, and then finished in Photoshop. So let’s take a look at the settings I use.įile Type: For landscape work I shoot in RAW Mode only. The three main things you really need – aperture, ISO, and shutter speed – are right on top of the camera. Fuji X cameras have a lot of technology under the hood but once you have settings established you rarely have to go back to the menus for anything. I can take any of my camera bodies out of the bag, and with confidence, know that I can be shooting within seconds of turning the camera on. With only some subtle variations, I use the same settings and set up for all of my various photographic endeavors – landscape, street, architecture, and portraits. The reason for this is simple no matter which camera I grab out of the bag, I know what the settings are and that the two camera bodies will function in the same way. I set up my X-T2 and my X-Pro 2 in exactly the same way.
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CONFIGURE ADOBE FLASH CAMERA SETTINGS ISO
Image exposed at ISO 1200 at f4 for 3 seconds. Fuji x-T2 and a Fujinon XF10-24mm f4 OIS. The Lincoln Memorial, National Mall, Washington, DC.The last thing you need to be doing during the moment of capture is to fumble with your camera or the settings. And in order to do that you need to learn the operations of your camera system forwards and backwards, develop an understanding of how you want to approach your photography, and then practice until it becomes automatic. Now, while the focus of this post is centered around my Fuji cameras, I will say that the best set-up is the one that works for you and makes you feel confident as you operate your camera. This is a question I have received several times and it often comes up during workshops where I see so many folks struggling with their cameras and settings. Hi everyone, and welcome to this blog post on the camera settings I use with the Fuji X System.